The month before going, hundreds of hours were spent on gear and kayak preparation, including the fitting of a rudder to my Selkie, which is a horrid looking abomination as are most rudders, however I’m not completely stupid as it will save a lot of energy which is important. A new sail was also fitted and provisions for extra water storage in the cockpit.
Saturday 19-02-2000 Day 1
We arrive Tidal river 9.30am and catch up with Peters friend Mick the
ranger who allows us access to beach with Peters vehicle and trailer. We
pack the kayaks in front of an increasing inquisitive crowd who must be
thinking the next time we hear of these 4 people will be the evening news.
The weather is hot and sunny with northerly wind. 11am sees us on the water
with a rising tide, lunch is at Fenwick Bight before striking north headwind
around lighthouse point with moderate rebound from small swell. We land
at Waterloo bay 3.30pm feeling a bit dehydrated. Along the way we spoke
with the water police who weren’t overly concerned with our trip plans
and were pleased we all had EPIRBS, GPS and VHF radio. We also spoke with
fisheries who were slightly more shocked about our plans and wished us
well, both authorities were very interested in the sleek racing hull type
vessel that had waved to us at Norman Bay, they seem to be concerned about
their activities. Set up camp at shady spot at the quiet end of beach and
are immediately set upon by rampaging march flies, which even follow you
in the water. Spent rest of day body surfing and resting. Weather forecast
indicated s/w change delayed till late tomorrow, get early night for tomorrow
as it will be a big day, first leg to Hogan Isle which can just be seen
from beach.
Sunday 20-02-2000 Day 2
Up at 6.45am packed and on water at 8.00am. No wind, slight swell forecast
for weakening s/w change Hogan visual after one hour. Peter feeling very
seedy 29km’s from Hogan towing Peter short distance before recovering slightly,
we then stop, raft up Peter vomits. This helps and he makes good recovery,
last 15 km’s becoming sore and uncomfortable. We finally land in bay in
front of hut built by Brian Stackhouse on Eastern side of Hogan Isle. Total
distance today is 53km’s. Fresh s/e wind soon comes up, could be here for
a while, Peter’s problem seems to be his drinking water or container. We
check water tank at hut, is full to the top, tap not working inside so
we repair it. Decide to camp in valley near hut as we heard about the native
rats that bite.
Monday 21-02-2000 Day 3
Up at 7.ooam, realise we are not going anywhere today, forecast is
strong wind warning upgraded to gale warning for all coast from Cape Otway.
Walked all over Isle checked out the solar lighthouse and disused weather
station. Went fishing caught only parrot fish, most by Tina, tasted as
I remembered like salt water carp. Swell increasing all day, wind 20-30
knots, watched penguins come up beach at night in tents by 9.00pm.
Tuesday 22-02-2000 Day 4
Long sleep up at 8.00am sea moderated a bit, Ian thinks we will be
out of here tomorrow, nothing to do on this Isle any more except find and
eat mutton birds, but seems to be out of season. 4pm wind up again, gusts
to 50knots on wind meter at top of hill. Penguins seem to have stayed in
today. Tried to plug VHF and marine radio into disused weather station
but no success. Wind dropped off late today, swell no longer crashing into
bay, raising our hope to get out tomorrow.
Wednesday 23-02-2000 Day 5
Up at 5.00am wind all but dropped off, forecast gale warning east of
Wilson’s prom. Make last entry in log book in hut, entries in log include
many seakayak crossings over last 15years, it seems Tina is the second
female to paddle across Bass Strait. On water 6.30am light wind swell up
to 3 meters and sloppy, make good progress 7kph. Erith Isle visual but
Peter doesn’t look well and feeling sick again, spots shark about 8ft swim
under my rudder. 3rd hour Peter vomiting, raft up bit of towing comes good
again, 8km of Erith Peter violently sick. Tina rafts up and supports Peter,
Ian and me tow both of them, Peter now cramped up and cannot paddle, s/w
change hits, Erith Isle disappears in low cloud and rain, navigating now
only by GPS, things getting very serious now, sea getting big and worried
about missing entrance to Murray pass. Getting very exhausted and paddle
tripping on Ian’s tow rope when surfing down swells followed by a violent
snap when slack takes up. Finally make it into Murray Pass fighting gale
force headwind into small bay for shelter. Peter recovers enough to make
it into Bulli Cove where we find a hut and fresh tank water, set up camp.
Distance today 39km’s Tina and I paddle across Murray Pass to Deal Isle,
meet caretakers Bob and Peter at homestead, help catch wallabies in compound
and throw them over the fence. Are given a bag of tomatoes from 100 year
old vegie garden, paddle back make dinner watch rats, possums and penguins,
rest day tomorrow, explore islands and phone home.
Thursday 24-02-2000 Day 6
Awoken about midnight by the familiar sound of a V12 engine, peering
out of tent can just make out in moonlight a shape of the black and grey
suspicious looking vessel we saw in Norman bay slowly cruising around our
bay then disappearing down Murray pass. Slept in today, perfect weather
no wind, Bush Heritage people whose organisation leases these Islands turned
up today with equipment and new water tank for the hut, plan to stay for
4 days. Girl gave Peter a tablet for stomach bug, hope it works. Visited
Bob and Peter at Deal Island, had tea and biscuits, walked to lighthouse,
2nd highest lighthouse in the world, decommissioned because it is often
shrouded in clouds. Spoke to crew of ‘Mezaire” in bay, Tina talked 4 cans
of drink out of them, showed us some huge lobsters, gave us some abalone,
tried it and gave it to the bush heritage crew, prepare for crossing tomorrow
to Killiecrankie, forecast no swell, light winds.
Friday 25-02-2000 Day 7
Crap night sleep on angle, 2.00am wind came up most depressing sky,
now overcast low clouds, up at 5.00am anyway doesn’t seem any hurry to
pack on water at 7.30am paddle east to Garden Cove, decide wind too strong
20knts plus from east head back to Deal Isle catch forecast from 3 yachts,
s/w change tomorrow hoping Sunday is the day to go. Peter and Ian head
back to Erith to make new camp in foreshore, forest campsites, Tina and
I sit on pier half sleeping while a wallaby sits next to us waiting for
something maybe. Go up to visit Bob and Peter get offered soup and muffins,
wander through museum again now warm with light winds, could have gone
today but who was to know. Police speak to us on the caretakers phone want
to know about suspicious boat who we know is Cam Strachen from Hastings,
he is banned from entering Tasmanian waters and is a bit of a pirate type
character wanted for illegal fishing but they cannot catch him as his boat
is a converted ocean racing hull fitted with hi-tech electronic gear and
a V12 turbo engine and a two foot diameter surface prop very fast can’t
catch him with evidence on board.
Saturday 26-02-2000 Day 8
Up at 8.00am s/w change here heavy rain starting to feel we are running
out of time and food, discussion with Peter clears up a few issues. Visited
Bob and Peter for last time got more tomatoes, said goodbyes and rang Bill
Robinson, got forecast paddled round to Winter cove on other side of Deal
Isle is 1hour paddle time closer to Flinders Isle, experienced gale force
gusts, strong currents and some big seas, landed in small surf found very
nice sheltered campsite. Went snorkelling, lots of big reef fish but can’t
quite spear the bastards, caught small salmon on beach very tasty, cooked
in foil good to eat some protein, wind abating, sit round fire till 9.00pm.
Sunday 27-02-2000 Day 9
Awoke to light winds, clear skies, cook porridge on fire again, I won’t
be eating this crap again at home. Getting bored now, made lure from tin
foil, caught more salmon, ate for lunch with tomatoes, eating spoon full
of promite daily, think is important, other’s don’t realise this (fools!)
If I am on this Island much longer I will kill them a wallaby and throw
it in the fire, haven’t seen one today, maybe they know something??? Slept
all afternoon, how good is it to do this, weather looking good for early
departure tomorrow. Salmon and tomatoes for dinner.
Monday 28-02-2000 Day 10
Up at 4.00am this is the big one, every one running off up the beach
trailing toilet paper this morning. On water at 5.15am seas flat sun rose
after one hour, 7kph had us at Wright rock in three hrs photographing a
seal colony and having snack, taking off cags as warming up now, ½
way to Craggy Isle. Ian and Tina spotted a dorsal fin of a shark much bigger
than the previous one, very sinister looking according to Ian, this brought
the group together. Rafted up at Craggy Isle, got out of cockpits had stretch,
sea calm. Set off on last 22km’s to Killiecrankie Bay arriving just after
2pm feeling sore but very pleased with ourselves 10 days after leaving
Tidal river. Directed to campsite by Mrs Stackhouse who runs the little
camping ground also found the general store and off loaded $150 between
us which covered most food groups as you can imagine. Also found big tiger
snake about 7ft long, seems they grow up to 9ft on and around the islands
surrounding Flinders. Waited for Peter and Ian to have cold showers then
lit fire and had hot shower myself, felt fine now and have not worn gloves.
Distance today 61km’s.
Tuesday 29-02-2000 Day 11
Casual start today se wind up, overcast, can’t believe how well we
did to enjoy yesterdays conditions. After raiding the general store again
we were told by the shop keeper that her mother lives at Allports beach
where we were heading, if we see her we may get some eggs. My thoughts
at this stage were if we don’t see her we may just get the whole chicken!!
Sailed out of Killiecrankie Bay all the way to Cape Frankland then turned
into headwind of 20+knots, struggled across Marshall Bay then along beach,
had a late lunch with 8 or 9 km’s remaining. Spectacular huge marble like
boulders line this part of the coast, arrived at Allports beach in small
bay at 5.00pm, found picnic type area with BBQ site and table, went for
a walk after dinner along rural dirt road and met eccentric old fellow
named Jim, who is a technical book writer for Penguin books, looked exactly
like the Professor out of the movie ‘Back to the Future’ and behaved rather
similar, apparently he’d had a few before we arrived. He showed us
the old bush tennis court where Laurie Ford’s group camped during their
return crossing in 1987. We took Jim back to camp to meet Ian and being
both into astronomy and having spent time at the CSIRO they got on like
a house on fire.
Wednesday 1-03-2000 Day 12
Casual start again off at 9.00am, sailed around Settlement point, met
headwind from s/e again, few aches and pains from yesterdays effort. Cut
across bay rounded next cape and paddled last 8km’s in shallow reefy water
into 15-20 knot headwind arriving at Whitemark in time for mixed grill
in pub recommended by Stuart Trueman on his crossing and excellent it was.
We were now almost too fat to fit in the phone box, rang Bill Robinson
to report in and Bob and Peter at Deal Isle to say thank you for all their
help and that we were safe. Looked around town, Tina and Ian each purchasing
some Killiecrankie diamond earrings from shop. Loaded more supplies in
kayaks and set off to Trousers Point 10km’s away in calm conditions,
took photos of Mt Strzelecki. Local copper advised us of the best campsite,
met crew of recreational fishing boat Fly Fisher” out of Hastings returning
to Lady Barron from continental shelf chasing marlin, gave us a bag of
fillets for dinner, on board was Laurie Ford’s ex brother in law, small
world. Caught up with 3 yachts from Deal Isle moored in bay, received forecast
20knt n/w turning s/w up to 30 knots tomorrow.
Thursday 2-03-2000 Day 13
Up at 7.00am possums been busy at night ate whole fish fillet off BBQ,
sandflies also bad here. Away at 7.50, crossed Franklin Sound (16km) in
two hours, flat seas, spoke to Flinders Isle copper again on his shark
cat, flash unit with 500 hp hanging off the back. Ian spoke with crew on
‘Furneaux Explorer’ n/w wind up now fast sail down to Preservation Isle
had lunch on lee side, people in cabin here gave us some water, they had
flown in earlier that day as this Isle has an airstrip. Wind now quite
strong fast sailing with 1-2 metre sea having already passed Thunder and
Lightning Bay on Cape Barren Island our destination for today we headed
for tomorrows destination Rebecca Bay on Clarke Isle arriving mid afternoon
the hottest day of the trip. Beautiful little bays but no water and campsite
at the top of a steep sand hill, however the snorkelling here was the best
I had seen so far. Can see s/w change coming in sky now had option of going
across Banks Strait today but decided to rest here the night, think everyone
is wondering whether we made the right decision.
Friday 3-03-2000 Day 14
S/w change came through early morning up at 8.00am, forecast 20-30knts
s/w sky a bit dark but we decided to go 2-3 hours before low tide and ferry
glide 7km’s to the right of Swan Isle lighthouse allowing for current on
water. 10.30 lumpy sea 2-3 metre plus right hand beam head wind 10-15 knots
after a while turn on GPS realise we are making good progress. Peter out
in front on compass bearing of 240, pass lighthouse after 3hours, not bad
for 18km’s. Have lunch in bay on lee side, trawler skipper tells us stronger
s/w change expected soon, time to go as soon will be slack water for last
4km crossing, have heard of strong currents to 5knots here. Front hits
us with wind to 50 knots can’t make headway, paddle close to shore to tip
of Swan Isle, as we plan our blast across wind moderates making ferry glide
possible to Little Musselroe Bay, enter creek mouth and are greeted by
Jeff Jennings (Maatsuyker Canoe Club) and Mrs Ponting. Who welcomes us
to have a hot shower. Jeff just happened to be dropping of a NSW seakayak
club member David Whyte who had become sick after leaving Launceston to
paddle to Hobart with Mike Snoad and Dirk Stuber who had arrived here this
morning. They all now planned to head off in the next couple of days to
Swan Isle then continue on to Hobart. After a few cold beers we wished
the 3 NSW members well, with a full loaded kayak trailer we then headed
to Jeff Jennings place at Bridport our trip now over feels like we only
left Tidal river yesterday almost feel like turning around and paddling
back. Could we be as lucky with the weather again, might have to
wait till next time to find out.
There are many people we must thank, for without their help this trip
would not have been easy to put together or complete. Bill Robinson:
Base communications. Bill had to deal with everyone from worried wives
and mothers to water police-sorry about the extra grey hair Bill!!!
Lionel Wishwell: Mersey Radio. Radio communications expert,
knew where we were before we did!
Yacht and fishing boat crews for their help and weather info across
Bass Strait.
Bob and Peter the care takers at Deal Isle- for without their
supply of tomatoes and tea with biscuits we would of starved!
Jeff Jennings, prior info, transport and accommodation, our
Tasmanian connection.
Steve Vegh at Canoe Innovations for his amazing craftsmanship
once again in altering and repairing our kayaks.
Sea To Summit for supplying their wonderful lightweight indestructible
dry bags for all of us.
Laurie Ford for information prior to trip which was invaluable,
however we never did find that water that just bubbles out of the sand.
Canoes plus
The Yacht shop Frankston and anyone else we forgot.
And of course Ian Dunn, Peter Provis, Tina Rowley for without them
this trip would not have been possible.
Paddlers
Ian Dunn - RaiderX (All kevlar construction)
Peter Provis - Selkie
Tina Rowley - Artic Raider
Julian Smith - Selkie
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