Day 1
We left heading into strong westerly wind and kept to the left of the
passage where water was shallow but more sheltered than through the deeper
channel. Pulling our kayaks over some of the bigger and shallower sand
bars at times, on the way Laurie continually showed me where distinguishing
land marks were and good places to camp. We stopped briefly on the beach
at the heads of Welcome Inlet and then paddled in deeper water to Woolnorth
point where we had lunch by a barge the abalone divers in the region use.
Ashore on Woolnorth Point
After lunch Laurie decided we would not to go out to Trefoil Island
because of the winds and large swell being pushed up from the southwest,
instead we paddled across Hunter Passage and sailed up the eastern side
of Hunter Island. I was having trouble with my sail and it was making my
boat feel quite unstable, I was unable to keep up with Laurie.
Dean under sail
We landed at Cave Bay and walked up to the Homestead. Laurie gave me
a brief history lesson about the island as we walked up. No one was about
and by the looks hadn’t for some time, so we walked back to the beach and
paddled up to Shepherds Bay and set up camp in a very sheltered location.
Walking in we did a bit of house keeping to the track, it had grown over
quite a lot. Keeping with tradition we lit a small fire, it kept my mind
off the fact I was being eaten by mosquitoes and sand flies.
Day2
Waking up early the wind and swell had increased and swung around to
the Northwest, we set out heading for the homestead on Three Hummock Island
- it was only 5 odd km Northeast from Shepherds Bay.
Leaving
Shepherds Bay
I was still having trouble with my sail and feeling unstable, Laurie
gave me a few pointers about sail position which helped but my sail cord
keep coming uncleated, I took it down half way across. We landed on Three
Hummock less than an hour later, got changed in an old shed at the jetty
and walked up to the homestead.
Gavin, who was the caretaker on the island for a month, got quite a
shock when we came striding up beside the original homestead he and his
partner were staying in. They came out and invited us in for a cuppa. We
left them a little while later to have breakfast and walked over to the
5 sister’s beach to have a look at the conditions and walked up to the
end of the beach and back. On arriving back at the homestead Gavin and
his partner came and checked out our kayaks Gavin seemed interested in
getting one, a couple of days before we arrived they had paddled around
Three Hummock in a Roaring Forties double with some old friends of Laurie’s.
Getting back to the kayaks we did some work on my kayak. Apparently I had
installed my cleats on the wrong sides and at an angle too parallel to
the cockpit.
Dean altering the cleats on his Mirage.
Laurie improvised and set up a rope for my sail cord to go through
and keep it in my now correct sided cleats. After changing back into our
wet gear we headed off for East Telegraph Beach via the southern side of
the Island. Laurie quickly set up sail as we now had a tail wind, I followed
suit and with the prior coaching and better rig I was having a ball sailing
and riding the swell. I was having too much fun to stop and find where
the fresh water beach was. An hour and a half later we came into a small
bay where a yacht was anchored, it had been on the other end of Shepherds
Bay to where we had camped the night before. We paddled over to it and
Laurie rattled on the hull to see if anyone was about, the owner came out
and had a brief chat, he had sailed up from Wynyard with his family over
the Christmas break.
The
coast on the SE corner of Three Hummock Island
We paddled for another half hour in to what was now a head wind on
that side of the island and landed on East Telegraph Beach. We had a bite
to eat, explored the dunes to find the 4wd track that leads to the aeroplane
runway below South Hummock. We found an easier path back to the beach that
had been marked by a large post at the foot of the dune. We set up camp
on the beach well back up from the hide tide mark on the soft sand, it
was decided that no pegs were going to hold our tents down in the sand
so Laurie’s fly was used for shelter, tied off to a kayak either side and
Laurie’s paddle as poles.
Our
bivvy
We laid out our tents flat for groundsheets with thermarests on top
with sleeping bags on top of that. I cooked up tea and Laurie had yet another
egg and bacon pie, apparently he stopped at Richmond bakery and bought
a cool half a dozen because I had threatened to bring eggs and bacon on
the trip. After tea we walked up to the other end of the beach and found
quite a few camp sites - some that had been recently used, too late to
change camp now. We collected some drift wood on the way back and had another
fire. Laurie took some photos of the cloud formations at sunset. it was
quite spectacular.
Sunset
over our camp on East Telegraph Beach
Panoramic
of the beach
Later in the evening we could hear the fairy penguin chicks calling
out, we went along to the south end of the beach where it met granite boulders,
and watched the penguins sheepishly sneak ashore. We headed off to bed
early again to be woken around about 1ish to some very busy penguins, it
had become apparent we had set up camp right in the way of their track,
we even had a visit from a possum that night.
Day Three
When daylight came, penguin tracks were in the sand all around
our camp, their tracks were everywhere.
Penguin
tracks
After having had breakfast we set out for South Hummock via the 4WD
track across the airstrip and up the gravel track that telecom had created
to get to their tower on top of South Hummock. On reaching the top we were
greeted a 360degree panoramic view.
Admiring
the view from the top of South Hummock
We could see the Doughboy’s Trefoil, Steep and Albatross Island’s as
well as the closer islands and mainland. Walking back down the temperature
had risen quite a bit and being use to the scrub and coastline around the
North West region, this looked like good snake country - it didn’t take
long before we saw our first copper head. Within 2km of leaving South hummock
we had seen 3 copper heads and nearly trodden on one, Laurie and I were
twinkle toeing around that one, all 18 inches of him. Walking back over
the air field and back down the overgrown 4WD track I was getting a bit
nervous understandably, we came across another copper head, they seemed
to be getting bigger. About 2km from the beach we came across a rather
large tiger snake basking in all his glory, I hadn’t seen a snake this
large since working down at Waratah for the private forestry 15 years ago.
He was very distinguishable from the other snakes - clear yellow stripes
on his black back. After we both got a photo of him Laurie threw a stick
in his direction and he rose up and went after it into the bush.
Tiger snake
I don’t think he enjoyed our company and interruption of his sun baking;
I wouldn’t like to come across him in mating season in February. One more
copperhead later, this one was the first ever true copper head I had experienced
out bush, not just the red belly, his head looked truly copper! The rest
of the walk was in silence and keen eyes peeled. Arriving back to the beach
by 11am and not much left to do for the day, we packed camp and set off
for Walker Island. We headed into a head wind and a bit of chop; closing
on Walker Island the conditions were better. Laurie had his sail up fairly
early into the paddle, I waited a while longer thinking I would be dragged
eastwards not realising the tidal current would negate this and is why
I had an ark to thewest in my crossing. The crossing was another good learning
curve for me, I kept reflecting on how it was good to be out there with
someone as experienced and willing to teach me as Laurie is. Before reaching
the Petrel Islands we saw the fishing boat Booran coming out from Smithton,
the water was quite a nice aqua colour here, clearly a sandy bottom.
Cathedral
Rock, Walker Island
We followed the east side of Walker Island to the heads between Robbins
Island and Walker Island, which led into Mosquito Inlet and paddled against
a fast flowing out-going current. A couple of men came around a big sweeping
bend on a 4 wheel motorbike; they were staying in a new shack where we
intended to put up camp. The men advised us that we could stay in a communal
shack a bit further along the Inlet. Upon inspection we decided to put
up camp behind some boobyallas at the end of the airfield. From where we
had gotten out of our kayaks the rise and fall in the tide was huge, we
had to carry our kayaks over 100 metres to the high tide mark, the tide
was only a third of the way out.
Ashore
in Mosquito Inlet
By the time the tide was fully out, looking west across to Stack Island,
it was almost impossible to see water and the inlet was reduced to a 10
metre wide waist deep pond. Eating our tea on the beach by the kayaks we
broke with tradition and had no fire and an early night. We were entertained
by an electrical storm and all I could think was I’m glad I’m not under
Laurie’s tent fly.
Tents
near the end of the airstrip
Day 4
The next morning we were greeted by a nice clear day with hardly any
wind to speak of. Laurie actually slept in as we could not leave until
we had some water to paddle in. The people who were staying in the shack
left in their 4WDs and we watched as they drove around the sand to the
crossing to Robbins’s Island, we eventually paddled past this spot.
Waiting
for the tide
We got into the water at about 10.30am with just enough water to paddle
out of the inlet, making our way down the western side of Robbins’s Island.
We were greeted by plenty of Swans; Laurie caught another one this time
I posed with the Swan on my spray deck.
A young swan
The next couple of hours we saw plenty of skate, stingrays and swans,
we counted the wind turbines at Woolnorth quite a few times and we agreed
that there is 37. We caught up to the 4WDs at Wallaby Island where we had
a short walk across the shallows, they had missed the tide back across
to Denium Hill. We were on the back straight now, we paddled into the gateway
at Denium hill camp site at around 1.30pm.
The
finish at Denium Hill
Some Locals had set up camp here now; after unpacking the kayaks and
loading them onto our cars Laurie pulled out a nice warm can of draught
and we celebrated a great trip, we had gotten back 2 days early because
the forecast didn’t sound too good and the way the weather came in over
the next couple of days it was a wise decision.