Throughout Fiji and in most parts of Polynesia the drinking of yaqona (pronounced yanggona), or kava, is a common ceremonial and social custom.

Yaqona is made from the root of the pepper plant, piper methysticum.

In days gone by, yaqona was prepared by young maids of a village who chewed the pieces of root into a soft pulpy mass before the water was added

Today, the root is pounded in a type of pestle and mortar, or ground to powder by machine. It is usual to sun-dry the roots before powdering, but sometimes the green root is used.

After the addition of the water, the gritty pieces of root are strained out by passing a bundle of vegetable fibre, usually the shredded bark of the vau tree, through the liquid. Although most people now use cheese cloth.

Yaqona powder ready for mixing can be bought by the pound in the markets and at most small shops.

The yaqona ceremony is still important in the Fijian way of life, but today it has become a social drink as well as a ceremony.

Drinking yaqona is very common in Fijian villages and it is normal for the men of the village to gather around the tanoa at the least excuse and swap yarns as the bilo (a half coconut shell), is passed around.

The tanoa is a large wooden bowl with legs carved from a single piece of vesi (hardwood) in which the yaqona is mixed. In parts of Viti Levu (the main island), particularly inland and on the southern and western coasts, instead of a tanoa, a dari (pottery basin) without legs is used for mixing yaqona. These are hand made from red clay.

In old Fiji, birth, marriage and death all called for the correct ceremonies, also the installation of chiefs, welcoming of important visitors, launching of canoes and when a chief of rank visited another village.

The ceremony is performed by the hosts, and yaqona is mixed in the presence of the guest of honour to the accompaniment of intricate ritual.

On such an occasion, the guest of honour is seated in front of the tanoa from which protrudes a thick rope of coconut fibre embellished with white cowrie shells. This is known as the Tui-ni-buli and is pointed towards the guest of honour. During the ceremony no one, on pain of death, may cross the line.

The person to perform the ceremony is seated cross-legged behind the tanoa and clustered behind him is usually a group of people who chant the rhythm of small lalis (hollow wooden drums) while the yaqona is being mixed.

At the direction of the “master of ceremonies”, acting on behalf of the guest of honour, water is added to the pulped root in the tanoa. When satisfied that the mixture is right he indicates that the preparation may continue.

When the grit has been removed and the potion is ready for drinking; the cup-bearers come forward bearing the bilo, and with much ceremony and respect, presents the guest of honour with the first bowl.

This he pours into the personal bowl of the guest who holds this before him with both hands. When he has drained the bowl in a single draught, there is a cry of "maca' (pronounced maathaa, meaning “it is empty”) accompanied by the clapping of cupped hands.

The master of ceremonies representing the guest of honour is next to drink and then succeeding cups are handed to senior guests in order or rank, one of the host group drinking after each guest.

When all guests of rank have been honoured, the ceremony is declared over. Preparations then proceed for the enjoyment of a magiti, or feast.

The yaqona ceremony cannot be performed as a spectacle and not all visitors to Fiji are fortunate enough to see it.

However, social yaqona drinking is very informal, with the powder being mixed through a piece of fine cloth into a plastic bucket or basin, or other suitable container.

Yaqona is often referred to as grog, so make sure you know what you’re letting yourself in for if invited for an evening of grog-drinking.