Marrawah to Smithton - July '98
(Map)

Not to be disappointed we were out of bed, some breakfasted whilst others didn't, all before the hour of 6.00am or was it 6.30?

The trip from Marrawah to Smithton was to take three days and required a car shuffle. We both drove to Smithton leaving one car here and proceeded on to Marrawah. As we arrived at Marrawah and then down into Ann Bay the early morning scene was truly spectacular. Ann Bay is a long sweeping cresent of sand with Mt Cameron West jutting ruggedly out into the sea at its northern extremity. This morning saw the sun wedged as an orange ball between the low lying cloud and Mt Cameron West veiled in mist and sea spray from a small two to two and a half metre well streching several hundred metres out to sea.

We were both on the water by eight thirty am, however having broken out through the surf I remembered my car keys were left in Laurie's car. Laurie at first believed it to be a joke , but sure enough it was true so we both surfed back in and whilst a little damp I was well relieved to remember this oversight now, rather than in three days having arrived at Smithton. The first day was a long one, a northerly wind was on our nose all the way and no where much to land. The coast is spectacular and with up to a three metre swell crashing into both beaches and cliffs, I could well imagine our first landing would be out around Cape Grim, thirty kms away. We did manage however to dart in behind some outlying reef after several hours of paddling for a quick stop on the beach, but after several minutes of gently freezing to death decided to move on. These outlying reefs contribute to a truly spectacular coastline, even more so on this day awash with foam and the crash of waves. It was behind one of these reefs that Laurie decided to have a bit of fun, as he paddled behind a low lying reef which was awash with a three metre swell that continued on in a broken wave to the shoreline of the cliffs beyond. Believing it to be much safer on the ocean side I continued to paddle only to loose Laurie in the morning glare and spray. After several anxious moments looking for the bugger and mistaking a piece of seaweed for an upturned boat we eventually saw each other. Obscured in the low morning sun and spray he was waving - waving not drowning as the song goes.

The rest of the day was largely uneventful with a sloppy sea from the incoming swells and the rebound from the one hundred metre cliffs and the gentle slog of a twenty to twenty five knot head wind. By three we passed the Doughboys, spectacular in their inaccessibility and the low grass like vegetation that hangs tenaciously from the cliffs and cascades in small lumpy tussocks to the upper reaches of large seas. In the relatively calm sea behind the Doughboys and Trefoil, we began to look for a camp site around the eastern end of Davidson's Bay. With camp quickly set up and a cooking fire gently blazing, an early dinner was well under way as the night fell. Whilst lazing back in the tussocks, feet burning whilst the rest was gently freezing to death; Laurie bemoaned the virtues of a warm fire at home, the multitude of tasks still undone and the television programs missed and to this melancholy we soon dragged ourselves off to bed for an early night at about eight.

The following morning was a leisurely one waiting for the tide to fall to push us east and south east into Robins Passage for the next night of camping. We were on the water by eleven and in the rain sailed at a steady pace on to Kangaroo Island and into Robbin's Passage. Despite the rain it was a great sailing day, Laurie clearly relaxed and enjoying the benefits of his two sails as I, the masters apprentice with one sail, paddled furiously to keep up. On entering Robbin's Passage I disturbed a very large shark that swirled and dived under my boat in the shallows that added just that little extra touch of excitement for the day.(aside to Ian, I didn't miss seeing this one). Lunch was around three o'clock at Phil's Point and with it still pouring with rain we set off to Stoney Point, arriving around five.

It was again an early night taking refuge in one of the numerous sheds. As usual, whilst I considered which culinary delight I was going to prepare, Laurie had in the same time eaten the last of a quiche, sank another tinny of Coke that had been breakfast , lunch and diner over the last few days. With it still pouring with rain we soon settled into our first class accommodation only to be disturbed by a persistent possum and around 12pm a car with two couples heading out to the point. With a view to keeping an eye on our boats I went down to see how things were going and after several freezing minutes hoped all was well and went back to bed. Little did I know Laurie had done the same and that could have created a rather amusing comedy had we run in to each other in the pitch black. The slamming of doors, screeching of tires and much giggling the car arrived directly in front of our shelter. Feeling a little like a possum pinned in the headlights of a car and I said something rather inane like "lovely night for it", to this they roared off to the next shelter and after much crashing and banging of the barbecue they lit a fire and sometime later drove off.

By seven in the morning we were out on the water to a satin grey day, high tide and mist-like rain. We tried to negotiate our way through Perkins Channel but with the Channel getting shallower with several kilometres still to go, we retraced our steps to deeper water and north of Perkins Island. The seven kilometres stretch of beach along Perkins Island that morning felt far enough but was made longer I believe by the realisation that the trip was nearly over. The channel through the heads to Smithton is easily negotiated but wanting that little extra drama, I was enjoying sitting close to the breaking surf. Not being quite as attentive as I should, a large wave rose to a curl behind me and crashed right on top of the boat. I was quickly upside down and rolling several times in the surf. A bit more attentive now, I rolled up ... only to catch another wave. The morning's winter freshness, a real reality now, I rolled up and quickly paddled out into the relative safety of deeper water. With a stiff southerly on our nose we paddled up into Smithton and having got there both hastily changed.

With dry clothes on, the boats loaded, we were on our way back to Marrawah for the other car. I had to stop for that fast food grease and oil change, and with no heater in the car it was a bit of an extension of my early morning dip at the Heads only this time I was to plunge Laurie into it as well. On arriving at Marrawah and from the safe and easily underestimated comfort of the car a good four metre swell was now rolling into the bay. It was with some comfort I looked out and as a set of monsters rolled in, I felt very content we had ended our trip in Smithton rather than the other way round. I would like to conclude to say thanks to Laurie for a great three days and for a man so technically adept, it's a pity his phone will have trouble receiving calls over the next few winter months.